It’s been a while since I’ve posted on the design process. It’s often a case of hurry up and wait. So, over the next few days there will be several posts to get us up to speed.
Once the drawings are approved it’s time to choose the color palettes and prepare the work for the printing process. Since I pretty much love all sorts and styles of fabrics I decided to turn the colorway choices up to the smart folks at P&B. They know alot more about color trends, what’s hot and what’s not, and what will work with fabrics in their other collections. I did make quite a few suggestions and changes as we worked together to refine the designs.
The next step is to prepare the designs for the printer. This is the part that I knew was way beyond my skill. The design needs to be split apart into screens so that it can be printed. This link on screen printing will give you a handle on how fabric is printed.
The upper limit for fabric printing is seventeen screens, which means seventeen passes at the fabric to lay down the colors. Subtle shading requires a screen for each value of the color. All those color dots on the fabric’s selvedge correspond to a screen. This is a very primitive example of the screens required to make the flower at the left.

In this example it would require five screens to create the flower. In real life I’d bet there would be at least one more, maybe two shades of purple in the flower and one more shade of yellow in the center, for a total of eight screens! Add in the background, with shading, the leaves, with shading and the other flowers, with more shading! You can see that those seventeen screens can get assigned pretty quickly.
So far everything has been totally digital. I know some fabric artists begin with pencil, pen or paint, but I can’t draw! I do all of my designing on the computer, and that’s exactly what I did to create the original drawings for the fabric line. It’s now the job for the mill to cut the screens to print the fabric. Modern day fabric printing uses something that is more like a cross between a screen and a stamp, but either way, it’s still a matter of preparing for multiple passes at the fabric.
We had a little hiccup in our process. My designs were so subtly shaded that the mill needed to rework the layers. It meant that the line would be delayed several months. A disappointment, yes, but done first is does not mean done best. (Where have I heard that before?) Better to take the time to make it wonderful than to make a deadline with a compromise.
Next, the first strike offs arrive.